Pool Water Chemistry Chart: Your Quick Reference Guide
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## Testing Frequency Guide
You don’t need to test everything every day. Here’s a practical schedule:
**Daily (or every other day):**
– Free chlorine
– pH
**Weekly:**
– Total alkalinity
– Combined chlorine (if you notice a chlorine smell)
**Monthly:**
– Calcium hardness
– Cyanuric acid
**As needed:**
– Total dissolved solids (only when chemistry won’t balance)
Stick to this routine and you’ll catch problems before they turn into expensive fixes.
## Printable Pool Chemistry Chart
You can save this chart to your phone or print it out. Keep it by your test kit so you always have ideal ranges in front of you.
**Pool Water Chemistry Quick Reference**
“`
FREE CHLORINE: 2-4 ppm (ideal) | 1-5 ppm (acceptable)
pH: 7.4-7.6 (ideal) | 7.2-7.8 (acceptable)
TOTAL ALKALINITY: 80-120 ppm (ideal) | 60-180 ppm (acceptable)
CALCIUM HARDNESS: 200-400 ppm (ideal) | 150-500 ppm (acceptable)
CYANURIC ACID (CYA): 30-50 ppm (ideal) | 20-80 ppm (acceptable)
TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS (TDS): <1500 ppm (ideal) | <2000 ppm (acceptable)
```
Print that out, laminate it, and you've got a waterproof cheat sheet for pool season.
## Balancing Your Pool Step by Step
When you test your water and find multiple things out of range, tackle them in this order:
**Step 1: Total Alkalinity**
Get it to 80-120 ppm first. This stabilizes pH and makes every other adjustment easier.
**Step 2: pH**
Once alkalinity is set, adjust pH to 7.4-7.6 using muriatic acid (to lower) or soda ash (to raise).
**Step 3: Calcium Hardness**
If it's below 150 ppm, add calcium chloride. If it's above 500 ppm, dilute by draining and refilling part of your pool.
**Step 4: Chlorine**
Now that water balance is right, add chlorine to hit 2-4 ppm. Chlorine works best when pH and alkalinity are dialed in.
**Step 5: Cyanuric Acid**
If CYA is below 30 ppm, add stabilizer. If it's above 80 ppm, the only fix is dilution (drain some water and refill).
Follow this sequence every time and you'll avoid the frustration of chasing your tail with chemicals that don't seem to work.
## FAQ
**What is the most important pool chemistry level to maintain?**
pH is the most critical. When pH is off, chlorine doesn't work efficiently, water becomes corrosive or scaling, and swimmers feel uncomfortable. Keep it at 7.4-7.6 and everything else becomes easier to manage.
**How often should I test my pool water?**
Test chlorine and pH every 1-2 days during swim season. Check alkalinity weekly and calcium hardness monthly. Cyanuric acid only needs testing a few times per season since it changes slowly.
**Can I print a pool chemistry chart?**
Yes! Save the chart from this article or take a screenshot. Laminate it so it's waterproof and keep it by your pool equipment for quick reference during testing.
**What happens if my pool chemistry is slightly off?**
Slightly out of range usually won't cause immediate problems. For example, a pH of 7.7 instead of 7.5 won't ruin your pool overnight. But prolonged imbalance leads to cloudy water, algae, scaling, or equipment damage. Fix small issues before they compound.
**Why does my pool chemistry keep changing?**
Rain, swimmers, sunlight, and chemicals all affect water balance. Heavy rain dilutes chemistry. Swimmers add oils, sweat, and sunscreen. UV breaks down chlorine. You'll never "set it and forget it" with pool chemistry. Regular testing and small adjustments keep things stable.
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